CAMERA GEAR: Inside our Camera Bags

Updated April 2025 by Sarah Marino

Since we are frequently asked about the gear we use for our photography, we maintain a current list here. We take the following set of gear and supplies with us on most of our photography trips. Not all of these items go in our bags on every outing but we generally have these items available to bring along depending on the conditions and focus on the trip or specific outing.

This article is more than a checklist of gear. Instead, this is an annotated list to help explain why we use these items. We hope this compilation will be helpful to newer photographers who are trying to establish their photography kit for the first time. Even though this page focuses on Canon gear, we hope the annotations will be helpful for any nature photographers reading this.

First, a Caveat: While quality gear is important for landscape and nature photography, the most recent and expensive gear is in no way essential to making high-quality photos. For example, we both happily used the original Canon 6D, a mid-range DSLR camera, for more than 5 years and never felt like it held us back as newer and better cameras were released. We encourage photographers to invest more in experiences, education, and getting out in the field over continually buying the latest and greatest. With more time outside, your photos will improve more than they would simply because you purchased a new and “better” camera.

The Benefits of Mirrorless Cameras: With this in mind, we both agree that upgrading to Canon’s R5 mirrorless camera and the paired RF lenses has opened up creative opportunities for both of us. Some features, like the built-in focus-bracketing option, make focus stacking a breeze and make it possible to more easily photograph scenes that would have previously been tedious and challenging. The in-body stabilization paired with lens stabilization makes hand-holding the camera possible in low-light situations. These features also make it much easier to create a sharp photo in windy situations. I have challenges with holding my hands steady and sometimes find it challenging to photograph without a tripod. With the image stabilization, I have been able to hand-hold a half-second exposure and it came out sharp! Hand-held focus stacks are also possible with this camera.

While focus stacking typically works best when the camera is mounted on a sturdy tripod, the ability to create a focus stack without a tripod sometimes makes it possible to make photos that we might otherwise pass up. The electronic viewfinder is also incredibly handy, with a histogram, level, and focus-peaking immediately accessible with the quick click of a button. Combined, these features open up many new creative possibilities compared to a standard DSLR camera. Once you decide to commit to photography for the long-term, investing in a high-quality camera and set of lenses sooner rather than later can be worthwhile, especially because today’s camera gear is so durable and long-lasting.

PHOTOGRAPHY EQUIPMENT

Unless we are backpacking or going for a long, difficult hike, we each take our camera and most of our lenses along on any photo outing. Our typical set of lenses (details below) includes the 14-35mm wide-angle lens, the 24-105 mid-range zoom lens, the 100-500mm telephoto lens, and a 100mm macro lens. With our full set of gear as described below, we have lenses covering a focal range from 14mm to 800mm for our full frame cameras, giving us the tools necessary to take photos of a very wide variety of scenes and subjects. And to answer a surprisingly common question: No, we do not share equipment, except for the occasional battery swap or memory card emergency. We each have an individual camera bag full of the equipment listed below.

Note: Some of the links below are Amazon affiliate links. If you use the link, we receive a small commission on your purchase while you pay the same price you would otherwise expect to pay. This helps provide us with a small bit of income. We use all of the products listed below and paid for every single one of them. While we sometimes purchase our gear from Amazon, we also regularly buy from small camera stores, especially Pictureline in Utah (their shipping is incredibly fast to western states and their customer service has been excellent).

Which lens should I bring?

Since unexpected opportunities can pop up at any moment, we prefer to be prepared with a wide range of gear, even if an extra lens or two might make the bag heavier. When teaching photography workshops, one of the most common questions is, “What lens should I bring?” The answer is generally all of them, especially if you will not be far from your car. While we can generally anticipate the type of scenery we will likely encounter during any outing, we regularly end up photographing scenes and subjects that differ from what we might have expected. Having a range of lenses with us makes it possible to respond to all of these opportunities.

A recent example: During a walk out to the salt flats in Death Valley National Park, I generally planned to photograph grand landscape scenes. Instead, I came upon some patches of intricate salt crystals and found them to be more interesting compared to the grand landscapes. If I had only brought along my 14-35mm wide angle lens—the lens that aligned with my general plans for the evening—I would not have had the equipment to photograph the subject that ended up exciting me the most. Having my macro lens and my 100-500mm telephoto lens meant I could photograph the salt crystals that evening. A few days later, we returned to this same spot and the salt crystals were gone because they had become inundated with water. I’m glad I had a range of lenses when I found the salt crystals on that first visit!

The Best Camera We Have Used

Canon R5 full-frame mirrorless camera - This is the best camera for nature photography that we have ever used (see above for some of the reasons why). It is a 45 megapixel full-frame camera with excellent dynamic range, beautiful file quality, and all sorts of features that make it a joy to use. If you are looking for a more affordable mirrorless option, Sarah used the Canon R mirrorless camera for a few years and also recommends it. Nearly all of Canon’s EF lenses work seamlessly with the EF-mount to RF-mount adapter so it is not necessary to upgrade all of your lenses if you want to switch to one of these mirrorless bodies. Canon has released the R5 Mark II but none of the new features are compelling enough to make us want to upgrade.

Lenses: What We Use and Why

Except for using a prime macro lens, we find zoom lenses to be most versatile for our style of nature photography. In natural settings, it can sometimes be hard to zoom with your feet so having a zoom lens can make composition more straightforward compared to using prime lenses. Zoom lenses have dramatically improved in terms of quality over the last decade so using one allows you to create technically solid files with the ability to easily and quickly refine your composition or try new framing ideas.

The Benefits of Newer Mirrorless Lenses - While the improvements we discuss here are specific to Canon’s lens line-up, you will likely find similar improvements with newer mirrorless-specific lenses from other manufacturers, as well. While all of our EF lenses worked seamlessly with the RF-mount mirrorless cameras (with an adapter), the newer RF lenses have features that made them individually enticing. Since photography is such an essential part of our lives and Canon equipment has proven very robust in the past, we decided it was worthwhile to upgrade all of our lenses since we expect them to perform well for many years. Some examples of why: The 16-35mm f/4 EF equivalent is now a 14-35mm f/4 RF lens (a 14mm lens that takes 77mm filters!). The 100mm macro lens is now 1.4x magnification instead of 1x magnification (this means we can photograph smaller subjects with the RF version of the lens). The 100-400mm lens is now a 100-500mm lens, without adding any weight. The 70-200mm f/4 lens is the size of a coffee cup, with a very close focusing distance. These are all meaningful differences that open up photographic opportunities, making the upgrades worthwhile.

Here are a few notes about why we like using each of these lenses in our nature photography, with our mainstay lenses listed first:

• Canon 14-35 mm RF f/4 L lens - A wide-angle lens like this is often considered to be the workhorse for photographing grand landscapes. We also find this lens to be useful for photographing smaller scenes, as well. A lens like this is handy when working in a tight space like a canyon, when photographing an expansive intimate landscape like an immersive forest scene, or when photographing a smaller scene at your feet. For abstract compositions, wider focal lengths can distort lines and shapes, which can sometimes be a helpful creative asset in crafting a composition. With regard to this specific lens, you have to apply a significant profile correction to photos taken at the wider end. This means that the corners are not terribly sharp, and that blending files for focus stacking in software like Helicon Focus can be tricky. This lens takes a 77mm filter, so no bulbous front like many of the other 14mm lenses available today. This lens has a lot of pros (14mm on the wide end, lightweight, and reasonably priced compared to other options) and some cons (needs heavy correction at the widest focal lengths and not super sharp).

• Canon 24-105mm f/4 RF L lens - With its versatile focal range, a lens like this is handy for grand landscapes, intimate landscapes, and a broad range of smaller scenes. If we can only bring along one or two lenses for an outing due to weight or space, this lens is typically a top choice because it is so versatile. A 24-70mm is another common choice for landscape photography but we both prefer the longer focal range for the 24-105mm. For this lens and the wide-angle lens above, we are happy with f/4 lenses because they are smaller and lighter compared to their f/2.8 counterparts.

• Canon 100mm f/2.8 RF L macro lens - Macro lenses are designed to allow for close focusing and a reproduction ratio of at least 1:1, with a 1:1 ratio meaning that the size of the subject on the sensor is the same size as the actual subject. This feature allows you to photograph very small subjects in nature. Additionally, if you like the look of shallow depth of field photos of smaller subjects, investing in a macro lens with a close minimum focusing distance and a large maximum aperture (like f/2.8) is helpful. A 100mm macro lens or similar is a good choice for small scenes because these lenses are fairly light weight and often allow you work with your subject at a comfortable distance (a lighter weight lens is helpful for creating plant photos without a tripod, for example). This specific Canon lens offers a maximum magnification of 1.4x, which means that you can use it to photograph subjects that are smaller compared to a standard 100mm macro lens.

• Canon 100-500mm f/4.5-7.1 RF L super-telephoto lens - We both agree that this is our favorite lens. With a generous focal range, we can use this lens for wider intimate landscapes and far off telephoto scenes. Generally, a long telephoto lens allows you to zoom in on a subject, achieve visual compression, and isolate details. Some long telephoto lenses, like this one, also have a fairly short minimum focusing distance which make them handy for photographing nearby subjects, like plants and subjects at your feet, as well. When discussing our lens choices with other photographers, they are often surprised that we think a 500mm focal length is handy for landscape photography. It is! We both regularly use this lens at its longest focal lengths for both large and small subjects.

Other Lenses - The four lenses above are what you will typically find in our camera bags. We usually grab one of the following lenses only for specific types of outings, like backpacking or a bird photography trip.

• Because it is so affordable, we also each have the Canon 100-400 F/5.6-8 lens for longer hikes and backpacking. For Canon users, this lens is a great option if you want a lighter weight option or more affordable option compared to the 100-500mm lens. The 100-400 is not weather-sealed but it is otherwise a solid, versatile choice.

• Canon RF 200-800mm f/6.3-9 IS USM Lens - This lens is very versatile for landscape photography and casual wildlife photography with its long focal range. Overall, we are both happy to have this tool in our bags, although it does have a few finicky features. The focus ring is very narrow and tight, making manual focusing a bit of a chore and nearly impossible when wearing gloves. The integrated collar doesn’t operate smoothly and if you use an Arca-Swiss plate system, you’ll have to buy a special plate to go on the foot. My ballhead isn’t quite robust enough to keep this lens steady on day with a slight breeze, so keep that in mind if you plan to use this lens for landscape photography (Ron’s heftier tripod set-up works well with this lens). The autofocus lags a bit compared to the 100-500mm lens and, as this is not an L-lens, it is not weather sealed. Overall, this is a great tool for the price. We have both used this lens with a 1.4x teleconverter for a focal length of 1,120mm. Fun!

• Canon 800mm f/11 RF fixed aperture telephoto lens - Before getting the 200-800mm lens described above, we both had a copy of this lens. Mirrorless technology has allowed camera manufacturers to create strange new lenses like this one. This is an affordable 800mm lens that you can only use at f/11. It is a little taller than a Nalgene water bottle when it is collapsed. In its extended shooting position, it is about five inches longer. In both positions, it feels almost hollow because it is so lightweight (for an 800mm lens…). This lens is an affordable option for getting into bird and wildlife photography. Compared to Canon’s other 800mm lens options, it is not as sharp and does have limitations related to the f/11 fixed aperture but it also does not cost as much as a used car (currently about $1,000 new compared to more than $15,000 for other options). This lens is fun to use for landscapes but again does come with some limitations (like not being able to focus outside of one zone in the middle). If you want an 800mm lens that is affordable and easy to carry around, this is your choice. If you’d prefer a more versatile focal range with just a bit more weight, the 200-800mm lens is a better choice.

• Canon 70-200 f/4 RF L lens - I bought this lens on a whim from a friend who was selling it to purchase the 100-500mm lens for himself. While it is duplicative of the 100-500mm lens, it is a great tool for hiking since it is so compact and light for its features. This lens is about the size of a coffee cup. For photographers who are interested in photographing smaller scenes, we recommend getting a telephoto zoom that best meets these three goals: long foal length (at least 400mm), reasonable weight, and reasonable price. This means that a lens like the 100-500mm lens is typically a better choice. However, a lens like this 70-200mm can be a decent option if telephoto landscapes are not of interest to you.

• Canon 1.4x RF teleconverter - This specific teleconverter only works with a small number of RF lenses, including the 100-500mm lens and the 800mm lens but not the 70-200mm f/4. This is not an essential tool but it does open up some opportunities to photograph distant subjects in new ways. If your longer lens is compatible with a teleconverter, the teleconverter can be an affordable option if you want to experiment with longer focal lengths without a major financial investment. Just be sure to assess the technical quality of your teleconverter + lens combination as some teleconverters degrade image quality pretty significantly. In these cases, cropping can be a better option.

Tripods and Ballheads

We are tripod aficionados. We both prefer the precision and more deliberate process that comes along with consistent tripod use. Ron primarily uses the Really Right Stuff BH-55 ballhead and TVC-33 tripod. If we are backpacking or going on a long hike, he switches to the Really Right Stuff BH-40 ballhead. I use the BH-40 ballhead and the TFC-23 tripod. These specific tripods are no longer manufactured but Really Right Stuff and LeoFoto (Ranger Series) both offer comparable options.

The Really Right Stuff tripods are easy to keep clean, far more reliable than anything else we have ever used, and have lasted for years with very heavy use. We both use these Really Right Stuff tripods for hiking even though they are a little heavy. We each have a smaller LeoFoto tripod that we use for REALLY long or hard hikes. (I use the LS-224 and Ron uses the LS-254C, each paired with a Really Right Stuff BH-25 ballhead. I wish I had bought the LS-254C, too). I also use a 3 Legged Thing L-bracket, which makes switching from horizontal to vertical camera orientation easier and offers a more stable setup. It might seem crazy to spend more than $100 on a small piece of metal but L-plates are a really useful piece of gear.

We agree with one common piece of advice for newer photographers: Just invest in a high-quality, sturdy tripod because you will end up spending more money fiddling around with the cheaper versions, all while eventually buying the expensive one anyway. Really Right Stuff, LeoFoto, Induro, and FLM are all good tripod options. Carbon fiber is generally the best choice for nature photography because it is a light-weight, durable material. We will reiterate the importance of choosing a STURDY tripod, especially if you are pairing your tripod with a longer, heavier telephoto lens. A small, rickety tripod has three major disadvantages: 1) it can be hard to get a sharp photo, especially with a longer lens, 2) it can put your camera at risk because it is prone to toppling over, and 3) if a tripod is too short, it will be annoying to use.

Additionally, we encourage you to stay away from any ballhead that does not use the Arca-Swiss style plate system. These other systems are cumbersome and unreliable compared to the Arca-Swiss style system. Really Right Stuff, Acratech, and LeoFoto are good options for ball heads. Some of our friends have also moved to geared heads, like the LeoFoto G4 or offerings from from Arca-Swiss. Although geared heads are slower to use, they offer more precision compared to a ballhead. I tried a geared head but found it too slow for my style of photography and ultimately went back to the BH-40 (for now, at least…).

CamerA BACKPACKS For Day Hiking and Backpacking

• Sarah: I use the women-specific Shimoda bags for day-hiking. The women’s tech straps make a huge difference in the comfort for these bags compared to the gender-neutral bags I have used in the past. Although the two-strap system across the chest looks pretty ridiculous, the comfort benefits are worth it. The Shimoda bags are also quite comfortable for day-hiking compared to other photo bags I have used. We had an issue with the zippers on our Shimoda bags and the company stood behind their warranty guarantee, too. My primary bag is the Explore V1 60L size with a medium internal core unit. Although I rarely need all this space, I like that I can stuff my very puffy Rab Neutrino Pro down coat into the bag with room to spare. I also have the Explore V2 30 bag, which is a good option for hiking in warmer weather or shorter trips. For backpacking, I use the Gregory Maven 65L pack. This backpack is a good compromise in terms of weight and robust build. Although it is heavier compared to a lightweight pack, it is sturdy enough to carry a heavier load that includes camera gear.

• Ron: Ron has both the Atlas Packs Adventure model and the Shimoda V2 Explore 35 for everyday use and dayhiking. Ron likes the Atlas pack because it has a flexible internal organization system with a heavy-duty harness designed for hiking with a heavy load but he almost always chooses the Shimoda. The Atlas pack is REALLY BIG and it is hard to store when we are traveling. The more compact Shimoda is easier to store out of sight in our vehicle. Ron uses the Seek Outside Divide Ultralight Backpack plus an f-stop small ICU to carry his camera gear.

Photography Accessories

We bring along the following accessories when out photographing:

• Filters, including a circular polarizer (like the Hoya HD3 polarizer) and a few solid neutral density filters (like this 3-stop filter). We have had some bad luck with expensive, trendy filter brands so we generally just stick with the tried and true Hoya brand.

  Why these two filters? A circular polarizer helps remove glare (wet surfaces, like foliage), enhance glare (like a reflection in a lake), enhance rainbows, and darken skies under certain circumstances (all effects that are difficult or impossible to mimic in Photoshop). A neutral density filter helps extend the shutter speed while leaving aperture and ISO the same (like allowing you to take a 1/4 sec exposure and turn it into a 1-second exposure without adjusting your aperture or ISO, which can be helpful when photographing a subject like moving water). We do not use graduated neutral density filters and instead blend exposures for dynamic range in Photoshop when necessary.

• Extra camera batteries - When using live view and the electronic viewfinder extensively, an extra battery is necessary after a full day of photography with our Canon cameras. We always have a few charged spares in case we do not have a chance to charge batteries between photography outings or for backpacking trips when we need a few days' worth of battery power. At least for Canon, the more expensive Canon-branded, high-capacity batteries seem to last much longer than their off-brand counterparts.

• Remote release - While using your camera's built-in timer can work for certain situations, using a remote release allows for hands-free camera operation (meaning potentially sharper files, especially with longer lenses) and more precise timing (like timing an exposure for the moment the wind calms down or when a wave hits a certain spot). We both use Canon’s wireless remotes (currently the BR-E1 model). While the name-brand Canon version seems crazy expensive for such a tiny piece of gear, the Canon brand remotes last much longer than the off-brand knock-offs we have tried.

• Portable 5-in-1 reflector - diffuser - shader - We share 12-inch, 22-inch, and 36-inch models. These reflectors, which collapse for easy storage, can be very handy for creating shade when photographing small scenes like plants or foliage. This tool helps make photographing small subjects possible at any time of day. The 12-inch version is so small that it is handy to have along at all times.

• Sandisk 256GB Memory Cards and ThinkTank Pocket Rocket memory card case - We back up photos to a laptop or external hard drive whenever possible while traveling to make sure that we do not lose files due to lost or corrupted memory cards (and memory cards do get corrupted, as happened to one of Sarah's cards that included files from a hike to Zion's Subway, a trip that isn't super-easy to repeat). This is especially important when using large cards, like the 128 or 256 GB size, which could contain an entire trip’s worth of photos. Here is a long article about our back-up strategies for more information on this topic.

• Miscellaneous accessories including microfiber cleaning clothes, Kim Wipes for lens cleaning, Giotto’s Rocket air blower (dust removal and sensor cleaning), small brush for cleaning up small scenes, an REI microfiber towel to cover the camera in light snow and rain (see photo at the top of this post), a free hotel shower cap (sometimes a good tool for keeping the camera mostly dry since systems designed for this use are way too cumbersome in practice), and a large umbrella for photographing in the rain or show.

• Silica gel packets and large zip-lock bags for drying out camera gear that has been exposed to rain or snow. Since our cameras are weather sealed, we feel comfortable using them in light rain and snow. Still, water exposure can cause fogging or damage so when we expose our cameras to water, we try to dry them out immediately. We put the camera and/or lens in the large ziplock with a few silica packs, sealing it overnight. While a lot of photographers recommend using rice for this purpose, rice can leave fine dust in camera gear (as we have learned from experience, with the line item of "cleaned for rice debris" noted on a repair invoice). Now, we use silica packs instead because they are cleaner and absorb more moisture than rice does, making them more effective. You can collect silica packets from online purchases or buy them in bulk. If you use your camera in wet weather, also be sure that your gear is fully insured with protection for water damage.

• Allen wrenches/hex keys - One for your tripod and one for your ballhead/L-plate set-up. We always keep these small wrenches in our camera pack as a loose tripod leg or L-plate can make photography difficult or at least annoying. Having the wrench along equals an instant fix.

Hiking & Miscellaneous Items

• GPS App: In addition to being a good hiking companion, a hiking GPS is a really handy tool for location scouting, navigating to specific photography spots on mostly featureless terrain (like a specific spot on a flat, expansive playa), returning to specific spots for sunrise, or returning to your car after dark. We use the Gaia GPS app, which we discuss in detail in this post.

• Clothing - On most days, we typically have two jackets (an insulating layer and a rain coat) plus a wool hat stuffed in our backpacks. More extreme weather will mean bringing along additional supplies, like hand warmers, waterproof/insulated pants, extra socks, warmer jackets, etc. Rab, Patagonia, and Eddie Bauer are generally our favorite brands for coats. These are my favorite gloves, which are thin enough to use while operating a camera.

• Hiking poles make hiking over rugged terrain with a heavy pack much more comfortable and less tiring. I have had a pair of Black Diamond Z-poles for years and they are fantastic—durable, lightweight, and easy to pack up once the tripod comes out.

• Walkie-talkies to help communicate when we are out photographing (since we might be in the same area but do not actually stay together when photographing).

• Small, lightweight foam pad. This kind of pad can be used as a knee pad or seat when out in the field. Since this only weighs about an ounce, it is a great little accessory to have along.

• Backpacking Gear: In addition to the packs listed above, we use a Tarptent Double Rainbow tent, Sea to Summit Ether Light sleeping pads, Sea to Summit Aeros premium pillows, the MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe backpacking stove, a Toaks 750 ml titanium pot, and Sea to Summit Alpha Light spoons. I use the Feathered Friends Petrel 10 YF sleeping bag, along with Goose Feet Gear down socks with +50% extra fill (the down socks are among my favorite piece of outdoor gear). Ron uses an Enlightened Equipment Enigma custom sleeping quilt.

• Highly fashionable fishing waders for use when photographing the coast, rivers, and streams (like this pair with separate wader boots or Crocs fishing shoes). Even though the waders with separate boots are more expensive than the all-in-one versions, the separate wader + boots combination is more flexible and lasts longer in our experience. The waders by themselves are also light enough to carry on a hike, whereas the waders with integrated boots are really heavy and cumbersome. Neoprene socks and water shoes/sandals can also work under certain circumstances, as well. While some photographers are willing to go into cold water and get numb feet, we would rather be warm, be able to enjoy photography for a longer period of time, and keep our hiking boots in better shape.

• The Ten Essentials, plus other emergency items: first aid kit plus matches in a waterproof container, a mini roll of duct tape, a few large safety pins, Potable Aqua water treatment tablets, a small supply of Advil and Benadryl, sunscreen, and chapstick.

• Headlamp - We have both switched to rechargeable headlamps, which are much better compared to their battery-powered equivalent. The charge lasts for a long time and without batteries to corrode, the headlamp itself lasts for a lot longer, too.

• Water, food, and miscellaneous supplies depending on the day (plus a whole other list of things if we are going backpacking).

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