CAMERA GEAR: Inside our Camera Bags

Updated March 2024

Since we are frequently asked about our photography gear, we maintain a current list here. We take the following set of gear and supplies with us on most of our photography trips. Not all of these items go in our bags on every outing but we always have these items available to bring along depending on the conditions and focus on the trip.

This post is more than a checklist of gear. Instead, we annotate the list to help explain why we use these items. We hope this compilation will be helpful to newer photographers who are trying to establish their photography kit for the first time. Even though this page focuses on Canon gear, we hope the annotations will be helpful for all nature photographers.

First, a caveat: While quality gear is an important tool for landscape and nature photography, the most recent and expensive gear is in no way essential to making high-quality photos. For example, we both happily used the original Canon 6D, a mid-range DSLR camera, for more than 5 years and never felt like it held us back as newer and better cameras were released. We encourage photographers to invest more in experiences, education, and getting out in the field over continually buying the latest and greatest. Your photos will likely improve more than they ever would because of a new camera purchase.

With this in mind, we both agree that upgrading to Canon’s R5 mirrorless camera and the paired RF lenses has opened up creative opportunities for both of us. Some features, like the built-in focus-bracketing option, make focus-stacking a breeze and make it possible to more easily photograph scenes that would have previously been tedious and challenging. The in-body stabilization plus the lens stabilization makes hand-holding the camera possible in low-light situations. These features also make it much easier to create a sharp photo in windy situations. I have balance issues and sometimes find it challenging to photograph without a tripod. With the image stabilization, I have been able to hand-hold a half-second exposure and it came out completely sharp. Hand-held focus stacks are also possible with this camera. While focus stacking typically works best when the camera is mounted on a sturdy tripod, the ability to create a focus stack without a tripod sometimes makes it possible to create photos that we might otherwise pass up. The electronic viewfinder is also incredibly handy, with a histogram, level, and focus-peaking immediately accessible with the quick click of a button. Combined, these features open up many new creative possibilities compared to a standard DSLR camera.

PHOTOGRAPHY EQUIPMENT

Unless we are backpacking or going for a long, difficult hike, we each take our camera and most of our lenses along on any photo outing. Our typical set of lenses includes the 14-35mm wide-angle lens, the 24-105 mid-range zoom lens, the 100-500mm telephoto lens, and a 100mm macro lens. With our full set of gear as described below, we have lenses covering a focal range from 14mm to 800mm for our full frame cameras, giving us the tools necessary to take photos of a very wide variety of scenes and subjects. To answer a surprisingly common question: no, we do not share equipment, except for the occasional battery swap or memory card emergency. We each have an individual camera bag full of the equipment listed below.

Note: Some of the links below are Amazon affiliate links, meaning we receive a small commission on any purchase while you pay the same price you would otherwise expect to pay. This helps provide a small bit of income. We use all of the products listed below and paid for every single one of them. While we sometimes purchase our gear from Amazon, we also regularly by from small camera stores including Pictureline, Hunt’s Photo & Video, and Kenmore Camera, all of which offer personalized service and the same prices you will find elsewhere (and sometimes better prices!).

Which lens should I bring?

Since unexpected opportunities can pop up at any moment, we prefer to be prepared with a wide range of gear, even if an extra lens or two might make the bag heavier. When teaching photography workshops, one of the most common questions is, “What lens should I bring?” The answer is generally all of them, especially if you will not be far from your car. While we can generally anticipate the type of scenery we will likely encounter during any outing, we regularly end up photographing scenes and subjects that differ from what we might have expected. Having a range of lenses with us makes it possible to respond to all of these opportunities.

A recent example: During a walk out to the salt flats in Death Valley National Park, I generally planned to photograph grand landscape scenes. Instead, I found some patches of intricate salt crystals and found them to be more interesting compared to the grand landscapes. If I had only brought along my 14-35mm wide angle lens—the lens that aligned with my general plans for the evening—I would not have had the equipment to photograph the subject that ended up exciting me the most. Having my macro lens and my 100-500mm telephoto lens meant I could photograph the salt crystals that evening. A few days later, we returned to this same spot and the salt crystals were gone because they had become inundated with water. I’m glad I had a range of lenses when I found the salt crystals on that first visit!

The Best Camera We Have Used

Canon R5 full-frame mirrorless camera - This is the best camera for nature photography that we have ever used (see above for some of the reasons why). It is a 45 megapixel full-frame camera with excellent dynamic range, beautiful file quality, and all sorts of features that make it a joy to use. If you are looking for a more affordable mirrorless option, Sarah used the Canon R mirrorless camera for a few years and also recommends it. The R5 is the best camera I have used. Nearly all of Canon’s EF lenses work seamlessly with the EF-mount to RF-mount adapter so it is not necessary to upgrade all of your lenses if you want to switch to one of these mirrorless bodies.

Lenses: What We Use and Why

Except for using a prime macro lens, we find zoom lenses to be most versatile for nature photography. In natural settings, it can sometimes be hard to zoom with your feet so having a zoom lens can make composition more straightforward compared to using prime lenses. Zoom lenses have dramatically improved in terms of quality over the last decade so using one allows you to create technically solid files with the ability to easily and quickly refine your composition or try new framing ideas.

THE BENEFITS OF NEWER MIRRORLESS LENSES: While the improvements we discuss here are specific to Canon’s lens line-up, you will likely find similar improvements with newer mirrorless-specific lenses from other manufacturers, as well. While all of our EF lenses worked seamlessly with the RF-mount mirrorless cameras, the newer RF lenses have features that made them individually enticing. Since photography is such an essential part of our lives and Canon equipment has proven very robust in the past, we decided it was worthwhile to upgrade all of our lenses since we expect them to perform well for many years. Some examples of why: the 16-35mm f/4 EF equivalent is now a 14-35mm f/4 RF lens (a 14mm lens that takes 77mm filters!). The 100mm macro lens is now 1.4x magnification instead of 1x magnification (this means we can photograph smaller subjects with the RF version of the lens). The 100-400mm lens is now a 100-500mm lens, without adding any weight. The 70-200mm f/4 lens is the size of a coffee cup, with a very close focusing distance. These are all meaningful differences that open up photographic opportunities.

Here are a few notes about why we like using each of these lenses in our nature photography:

• Canon 14-35 mm RF f/4 L lens - A wide-angle lens like this is often considered a workhorse for photographing grand landscapes. We also find this lens to be useful for photographing smaller scenes, as well. A lens like this is handy when working in a tight space like a canyon, when photographing an expansive intimate landscape like an immersive forest scene, or when photographing a smaller scene at your feet. For abstract compositions, wider focal lengths can distort lines and shapes, which can sometimes be a helpful creative asset. With regard to this specific lens, you have to apply a significant profile correction to photos taken at the wider end. This means that the corners are not terribly sharp, and that blending files for focus stacking in software like Helicon Focus can be tricky and tedious. This 14mm lens takes a 77mm filter, so no bulbous front like many of the other 14mm lenses available today. This lens has a lot of pros (14mm, lightweight, reasonably priced compared to other options) and some cons (needs heavy correction at the widest focal lengths, not super sharp).

• Canon 24-105mm f/4 RF L lens - This lens, and those like it from other manufacturers, is an all-around workhorse of a lens. With this versatile focal range, a lens like this is handy for grand landscapes, intimate landscapes, and a broad range of smaller scenes. If we can only bring along two lenses for an outing due to weight or space, this lens is typically a top choice because it is so versatile.

• Canon 100mm f/2.8 RF L macro lens - Macro lenses are designed to allow for close focusing and a reproduction ratio of at least 1:1, with a 1:1 ratio meaning that the size of the subject on the sensor is the same size as the actual subject. These features allow you to photograph very small subjects in nature. If you like the look of shallow depth of field photos of smaller subjects, investing in a macro lens with a close minimum focusing distance and a large maximum aperture (like f/2.8) is helpful. A 100mm macro lens or similar is a good choice for small scenes because these lenses are fairly light weight and often allow you work with your subject at a comfortable distance (a lighter weight lens is helpful for creating hand-held plant photos, for example). This specific Canon lens offers a maximum magnification of 1.4x, which means that you can use it to photograph subjects that are smaller compared to a standard 100mm macro lens.

• Canon 100-500mm f/4.5-7.1 RF L super-telephoto lens - We both agree that this is our favorite lens. With a generous focal range, we can use this lens for wider intimate landscapes and far off telephoto landscapes. Generally, a long telephoto lens allows you to zoom in on a subject, achieve visual compression, and isolate details. Some long telephoto lenses, like this one, also have a fairly short minimum focusing distance which make them handy for photographing nearby subjects, like plants and subjects at your feet, as well. When discussing our lens choices with other photographers, they are often surprised that we think a 500mm focal length is handy for landscape photography. It is! We both regularly use this lens at its longest focal lengths for both large and small subjects. Because it is so affordable, we also have the Canon 100-400 F/5.6-8 lens for longer hikes and backpacking. For Canon users, this lens is a great option if you want a lighter weight option or more affordable option compared to the 100-500mm lens. The 100-400 is not weather-sealed but it is otherwise a solid, versatile choice.

• Canon 800mm f/11 RF fixed aperture telephoto lens - Mirrorless technology has allowed camera manufacturers to create strange new lenses like this one. This is an affordable 800mm lens that you can only use at f/11. It is a little taller than a Nalgene water bottle when it is collapsed. In its extended shooting position, it is about five inches longer. In both positions, it feels almost hollow because it is so lightweight. This lens is an affordable option for getting into bird and wildlife photography. Compared to Canon’s other 800mm lens options, it is not as sharp and does have limitations related to the f/11 fixed aperture but it also does not cost as much as a used car (currently about $1,000 new compared to more than $15,000 for other options). This lens is fun to use for landscapes but again does come with some limitations (like not being able to focus outside of one zone in the middle). We have both used this lens with a 1.4x teleconverter for a focal length of 1,120mm. Fun!

• Canon 70-200 f/4 RF L lens - I bought this lens on a whim from a friend who was selling it to purchase the 100-500mm lens for himself. While it is duplicative of the 100-500mm lens, it is a great tool for hiking since it is so compact and light for its features. This lens is about the size of a coffee cup. For photographers who are interested in photographing smaller scenes, we recommend getting a telephoto zoom that best meets these three goals: long foal length (at least 400mm), reasonable weight, and reasonable price. This means that a lens like the 100-500mm lens is typically a better choice. However, a lens like this 70-200mm can be a decent option if telephoto landscapes are not of interest to you.

• Canon 1.4x RF teleconverter - This specific teleconverter only works with a small number of RF lenses, including the 100-500mm lens and the 800mm lens but not the 70-200mm f/4. This is not an essential tool but it does open up some opportunities to photograph distant subjects in new ways. If your longer lens is compatible with a teleconverter, the teleconverter can be an affordable option if you want to experiment with longer focal lengths without a major financial investment. Just be sure to assess the technical quality of your teleconverter + lens combination as some teleconverters degrade image quality pretty significantly. In these cases, cropping can be a better option.

Tripods and Ballheads

We are tripod aficionados. We both prefer the precision and more deliberate process that comes along with consistent tripod use. Ron primarily uses the Really Right Stuff BH-55 ballhead and TVC-33 tripod. If we are backpacking or going on a long hike, he switches to the Really Right Stuff BH-40 ballhead. I use the BH-40 ballhead and the TFC-23 tripod. These specific tripods are no longer manufactured but Really Right Stuff and LeoFoto (Ranger Series) both offer comparable options. The Really Right Stuff tripods are easy to keep clean, far more reliable than anything else we have ever used, and have lasted for years with very heavy use. We both use these Really Right Stuff tripods for hiking even though they are a little heavy. We each have a smaller LeoFoto tripod that we use for REALLY long or hard hikes (Sarah uses the LS-224 and Ron uses the LS-254C, each paired with a Really Right Stuff BH-25 ballhead). Sarah also uses a 3 Legged Thing L-bracket, which makes switching from horizontal to vertical camera orientation easier and offers a more stable setup. It might seem crazy to spend more than $100 on a small piece of metal but L-plates are a really useful piece of gear.

We agree with one common piece of advice for newer photographers: Just invest in a high-quality, sturdy tripod because you will end up spending more money fiddling around with the cheaper versions, all while eventually buying the expensive one anyway. Really Right Stuff, LeoFoto, Induro, and FLM are all good tripod options. Carbon fiber is generally the best choice for nature photography because it is a light-weight, durable material. We will reiterate the importance of choosing a STURDY tripod, especially if you are pairing your tripod with a longer, heavier telephoto lens. A small, rickety tripod has three major disadvantages: 1) it can be hard to get a sharp photo, especially with a longer lens, 2) it can put your camera at risk because it is prone to toppling over, and 3) if a tripod is too short, it will be annoying to use.

Additionally, we encourage you to stay away from any ballhead that does not use the Arca-Swiss style plate system. These other systems are cumbersome and unreliable compared to the Arca-Swiss style system. Really Right Stuff, Acratech, and LeoFoto are good options for ball heads. Some of our friends have also moved to geared heads, like the LeoFoto G4. Although geared heads are slower to use, they offer more precision compared to a ballhead.

CamerA BACKPACKS For Day Hiking and Backpacking

• Sarah: I use the women-specific Shimoda bags for day-hiking. The women’s tech straps make a huge difference in the comfort for these bags compared to the gender-neutral bags I have used in the past. Although the two-strap system across the chest looks pretty ridiculous, the comfort benefits are worth it. The Shimoda bags are also quite comfortable for day-hiking compared to other photo bags I have used. We had an issue with the zippers on our Shimoda bags and the company stood behind their warranty guarantee, too. My primary bag is the Explore V1 60L size with a medium internal core unit. Although I rarely need all this space, I like that I can stuff my very puffy Rab Neutrino Pro down coat into the bag with room to spare. I also have the Explore V2 30 bag, which is a good option for hiking in warmer weather or shorter trips. For backpacking, I use the Gregory Maven 65L pack. This back is a good compromise in terms of weight. Although it is heavier compared to a lightweight pack, it is sturdy enough to carry a heavier load that includes camera gear.

• Ron: Ron uses the Atlas Packs Adventure model. Ron likes it because it has a flexible internal organization system with a heavy-duty harness designed for hiking with a heavy load. Ron uses the Seek Outside Divide Ultralight Backpack plus an f-stop small ICU to carry his camera gear.

Photography Accessories

• Filters, including a circular polarizer (like the Hoya HD3 polarizer) and a few solid neutral density filters (like this 3-stop filter). We have had some bad luck with expensive, trendy filter brands so we generally just stick with the tried and true Hoya brand.

  Why these two filters? A circular polarizer helps remove glare (wet surfaces, like foliage), enhance glare (like a reflection in a lake), enhance rainbows, and darken skies under certain circumstances (all effects that are difficult or impossible to mimic in Photoshop). A neutral density filter helps extend the shutter speed while leaving aperture and ISO the same (like allowing you to take a 1/4 sec exposure and turn it into a 1-second exposure without adjusting your aperture or ISO, which can be helpful when photographing a subject like moving water). We do not use graduated neutral density filters and instead blend exposures for dynamic range in Photoshop when necessary.

• Extra camera batteries - When using live view and the electronic viewfinder extensively, an extra battery is necessary after a full day of photography with our Canon cameras. We always have a few charged spares in case we do not have a chance to charge batteries between photography outings or for backpacking trips when we need a few days' worth of battery power. At least for Canon, the more expensive Canon-branded, high-capacity batteries seem to last much longer than their off-brand counterparts.

• Remote release - While using your camera's built-in timer can work for certain situations, using a remote release allows for hands-free camera operation (potentially sharper files, especially with longer lenses) and more precise timing (like timing an exposure for the moment the wind calms down or when a wave hits a certain spot). We both use Canon’s wireless remotes.

• Portable 5-in-1 reflectors - We share 12-inch, 22-inch, and 36-inch models. These reflectors, which collapse for easy storage, can be very handy for creating shade when photographing small scenes like plants or foliage. This tool helps make photographing small subjects possible at any time of day. The 12-inch version is so small that it is handy to have along at all times.

• Sandisk 256GB Memory Cards and ThinkTank Pocket Rocket memory card case - We back up photos to a laptop or external hard drive whenever possible while traveling to make sure that we do not lose files due to lost or corrupted memory cards (and memory cards do get corrupted, as happened to one of Sarah's cards that included files from a hike to Zion's Subway, a trip that isn't super-easy to repeat). This is especially important when using large cards, like the 128 or 256 GB size, which could contain an entire trip’s worth of photos. Here is a long article about our back-up strategies for more information on this topic.

• Miscellaneous accessories including microfiber cleaning clothes, Kim Wipes for lens cleaning, Giottos Rocket air blower (dust removal and sensor cleaning), small brush for cleaning up small scenes,REI microfiber towel to cover the camera in light snow and rain (see photo at the top of this post), and a free hotel shower cap (sometimes a good tool for keeping the camera mostly dry since systems designed for this use are way too cumbersome in practice).

• Silica gel packets and large zip-lock bags for drying out camera gear that has been exposed to rain or snow. Since our cameras are weather sealed, we feel comfortable using them in light rain and snow. Still, water exposure can cause fogging or damage so when we expose our cameras to water, we try to dry them out immediately. While a lot of people recommend using rice for this purpose, rice can leave fine dust in camera gear (as we have learned from experience, with the line item of "cleaned for rice debris" noted on a repair invoice). Now, we use silica packs instead because they are cleaner and absorb more moisture than rice does, making them more effective and cleaner. You can collect silica packets from shoe box purchases or buy them in bulk online. If you use your camera in wet weather, also be sure that your gear is fully insured with protection for water damage.

• Allen wrenches/hex keys - One for your tripod and one for your ballhead/L-plate set-up. We always keep these small wrenches in our camera pack as a loose tripod leg or L-plate can make photography difficult or at least annoying. Having the wrench along equals an instant fix.

Hiking & Miscellaneous Items

• Gaia GPS App: In addition to being a good hiking companion, a hiking GPS is a really handy tool for location scouting, navigating to specific photography spots on mostly featureless terrain (like a specific spot on a flat, expansive playa), returning to specific spots for sunrise, or returning to your car after dark. We use the Gaia GPS app, which we discuss in detail in this post.

• Clothing - On most days, we typically have two jackets (North Face Thermoball insulated layer and an Arc'teryx Gore-Tex rain shell) and a wool hat stuffed in our backpacks. More extreme weather will mean bringing along additional supplies, like hand warmers, waterproof/insulated pants, extra socks, warmer jackets, etc.

• Hiking poles make hiking over rugged terrain with a heavy pack much more comfortable and less tiring. I have had a pair of Black Diamond Z-poles for years and they are fantastic—durable, lightweight, and easy to pack up once the tripod comes out.

• Walkie-talkies to help communicate when we are out photographing (since we might be in the same area but do not actually stay together when photographing).

• Small, lightweight foam pad. This kind of pad can be used as a knee pad or seat when out in the field. Since this only weighs about an ounce, it is a great little accessory to have along.

• Backpacking Gear: In addition to the packs listed above, we use a Tarptent Double Rainbow tent, Sea to Summit Ether Light sleeping pads, Sea to Summit Aeros premium pillow, the MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe backpacking stove, a Toaks 750 ml titanium pot, and Sea to Summit Alpha Light spoons. I use the Feathered Friends Petrel 10 YF sleeping bag, along with Goose Feet Gear down socks with +50% extra fill (the down socks are among my favorite piece of outdoor gear). Ron uses an Enlightened Equipment Enigma custom sleeping quilt.

• Highly fashionable fishing waders for use when photographing the coast, rivers, and streams (like this pair with separate wader boots or Crocs fishing shoes). Even though the waders with separate boots are more expensive than the all-in-one versions, the separate wader/boot combination is more flexible and lasts longer in our experience. The waders by themselves are also light enough to carry on a hike, whereas the waders with integrated boots are really heavy and cumbersome. Neoprene socks and water shoes/sandals can also work under certain circumstances, as well. While some photographers are willing to go into cold water and get numb feet, we would rather be warm, be able to enjoy photography for a longer period of time, and keep our hiking boots in better shape.

• The Ten Essentials, plus other emergency items: first aid kit plus matches in a waterproof container, a mini roll of duct tape, a few large safety pins, Potable Aqua water treatment tablets, a small supply of Advil and Benadryl, sunscreen, and chapstick.

• Headlamp and an extra set of batteries.

• Water, food, and miscellaneous supplies depending on the day (plus a whole other list of things if we are going backpacking).

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